Monday, 2 June 2014

St Julien En Primeur - 2013 Vintage

Chateau Lagrange

Chateau Beychevelle 2013
Beychevelle is one of the household names from Bordeaux. Easily recognizable label, rich story, and situated on the side of a hill as you climb into St Julien. Its not much of a climb though as the highest point in the Medoc is roughly 26 above sea level. The wine has a huge following and I have been told much of its volume finds its way to Japan.
The palate is rather extracted and the fruit shows as slighty green and under ripe. The tannins are firm and somewhat over powering. The wine finishes with the bitter coffee flavor found in a lot of the wines this vintage. Not a wine to my tastes. 87 points

Ch Branaire Ducru 2013
Just on the other side of the road to Beychevelle and once a part of the Beychevelle estate. The wine show nice red fruits but much in the same manner to its neighbor, comes across slightly too extracted and under ripe. Oak is prominent, and its scary to think what it might look like with another 12 months in barrel. Better than the Beychevelle. Just. 88 Points

Ch Gruad Larose 2013
A blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Its seems to be a running theme in tasting the St Julien wines that both alcohol and oak are a little out of balance with the fruit. The fruit is very under ripe and provides for a sour finish. 83 points

Ch Lagrange 2013
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot.
La Grange translates to something along the lines of farm house, which is an odd name as the estate is very much reminiscent of that of Lafite-Rothschild. Its got the postcard front, the willow trees and really is one of the more spectacular and beautiful Chateau in all of Bordeaux.
The fruit is dark and brooding on this wines but is still a touch under baked. Oak has been thrown at it like Asian business men thrown money at strippers. It sort of ruins the wine a bit as the other elements seemed to be in balance. 86points

Ch Langoa Barton 2013
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The fruit is a little diluted and leaves the wine struggling to find its way. The acidity is quite high and the oak treatment has left what is left tasting a little bitter. It seems that the French know how to make better coffee using oak than they do with actual coffee. 87 Points

Ch Leoville Barton 2013
Ok. Now we are talking. A St Julien doing it right in 2013. This wine is actually made at its neighbor property also owned by the Barton family, Langoa Barton. Funnily enough, the Chateau on its label is actually Langoa Barton too.
The fruit and weight are both darker, riper and deeper than many of the other St Juliens. The tannins are grippy but ripe and lead through to a well balance and long finish. 91+ Points

Ch Leoville Poyferré 2013
While most critic and fellow tasters disagree with me on this one, I think this is a better wine that the Leoville Barton, but only by a bee’s dick. Its a touch riper and more aromatic on the nose and invites you in more than any of the other wines from the appellation. The wine shows raspberries and cassis fruit while also ensures you that it is indeed a deep and firm wine. The tannins are fine and have a ripe nut flavor about them. The oak treatment is also delicious with an almond nuance. 92+ Points

Ch Gloria 2013
A Cru Bourgeois nestled between Branaire Ducro and Du Glana and owned by the same family as Saint-Pierre. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Dark fruit and coffee on the nose. Fruit a little too extracted and exaggerated by the green tannins. Finishes fresh. 85 Points

Ch St Pierre 2013
I tasted this wine twice and thought it was going to be a critics favourite. It wasn’t hated by them, but it fell into the group that holds so many lesser wines. 74% Cabernet Sauvignon 18% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. The fruit is dark and fresh both on the nose and on the palate and shows as ripe and supple. The tannins are fine and in balance, and the oak is not over done. The alcohol may just pop its head out right on the finish, but only ever so slightly. However, I do prefer this touch of alcohol paired with persistent fruit than I do the oak and acid finish of many of its neighbours. 92+  Points.

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