Over the past weekend I had a couple of friends visiting from Australia and of course wanted to take them to what I feel are the most institutional restaurants in Bordeaux. There was absolutely no holding back on either wine or food. Today will mark a return to sport, something I am a little fearful of to be quite honest.
Les Noailles
This super traditional Bordeaux brasserie sits on the Allée de Tourney in the centre of the city and is frequented by the Bordelaise, admittedly, of the white haired variety.
Classic cocktails, classic Bordeaux wines, and classic dishes are served by white shirted waiters with their black waistcoats and silver trays. Call it a cliché, but I love it.
When in South West France, there is really only one type of animal to eat. Its awfully tempting sometimes to catch one of the ducks wandering around the park and take it home to cook it up myself, although it would be to this level.
This was the best confit de canard I have had yet, and I have had many, including Les Noailles’ previously. Its not a complicated dish, but it does need to be cooked to perfection. None of the fat was left uncooked and flabby around the meat, but instead perfectly crisped up. The meat still had its lovely stringy texture but was still moist and delicious. Its nice to talk up a dish and for it to actually deliver. Another foreigner converted to the wonders of duck confit.
A Petit Chateau Lalande de Pomerol washed it all down.
La Terrasse Rouse at Chateau La Dominique
View looking towards Ch l'Evangile and Ch La Conseillante
While you couldn’t exactly call a two month old restaurant an institution, it is run by Brasserie Bordealise with an almost identical menu, and BB, is most definitely an institution.
Due to the French work ethic of striking if the weather is nice, no trains were running to St Emilion, so we walked the 5km from Libourne to the estate. Libourne may be a shithole, but once you are out of the town and into the vineyards, its actually a pretty beautiful walk through Pomerol.
I went here for the first time the week it opened for the En Primeur and have been obsessed since. Its basically an enormous balcony that looks over some of the right banks greatest estates including next door neighbor Cheval Blanc, Figeac, l’Evangile and Consiellante. It really is one of the greastest views. Ill let the pictures do the talking.
No short cuts taken. Any Australian winery looking to open a restaurant needs to look at this. Just copy it. Its un-topable.
On top of this, the food is crazy. Pretty much nothing but meat, but its every French meat you can imagine done in every single way. I took the Pauillac lamb cutlets. Good to see some collaboration between each side of the river. The great thing about this restaurant is their cooking on a wood flame. Cane cuttings from local vineyards are used as fuel and give the meat a unique smokey flavour. Its one of the great Bordeaux traditions and sets their barbequing techniques apart.
Whether you are a tourist or a local, this is the place to be. Admittedly, between the space of visiting, and writing this (two days) I have actually visited again! To good to say no.
The open plan kitchen
Peppone
Peppone is a local Italian eatery in town and is cheap as chips for what you get. Its really just pizza and pasta, but the cool quirk is their cellar. Here, waiters don’t come to your table to take you order for wine, instead you wander down into the old network of small paths and room under the restaurant and find the wine you want yourself. It really gets you in the mood to have a few bottles!
Theres not much to say about the food other than it is pizza, but better than those you have had before. Simple fresh ingredients on a thin base, cooked very quickly at a super hot temperature. The Neapolitans would be proud.
Allez!
